The first time someone told me Hong Kong was a hiking destination I did not believe them. I had the city in my head, all towers and trams and dim sum. Then I walked the Dragon's Back on a clear December morning and understood. Something like three quarters of the territory is countryside, and a lot of it is genuinely wild.

You do not need to be a serious hiker for the good ones. You need good shoes and a reasonable level of fitness.

The Dragon's Back

This is the trail to do if you only do one. It is on Hong Kong Island, it is about 8.5 km end to end, and it takes most people three to four hours including stops. The name comes from the way the path follows a ridge over several peaks, rising and falling like the back of a dragon.

What makes it special is the pairing. You are walking a green ridge with the sea on one side and the city on the other, and on a clear day you can see all the way to the islands in the south. The final descent brings you down to Big Wave Bay, a proper sandy beach with a couple of cafes and a lifeguard in summer.

Getting there and back

Take the MTR to Shau Kei Wan, then bus 9 toward Shek O and get off at the To Te Te Wan gap, which is where the trail starts. Coming back, buses run from Big Wave Bay or from Shek O village. It is easy and cheap, maybe 20 HKD each way on the bus.

Start early. I began at 8am and had long stretches to myself. By 11am on a Sunday it gets busy, and the narrow sections of the ridge become a slow queue.

The honest bit about the trail

There is very little shade. The ridge is exposed and if you go in July you will cook. I would not do this between June and September unless you start at dawn. October through March is much better, and the air is clearer too.

The path is well marked and mostly stone stepped, but there are sections of loose rock and some genuinely steep bits. You do not need technical gear. You do need shoes with grip. I watched someone attempt it in flat canvas trainers and regret it.

Take more water than you think. There are no shops on the ridge.

Other trails depending on your energy

Victoria Peak loop

Easy and short. A circular walk around the top of the Peak, about 3.5 km, mostly flat and shaded. It is a very different experience from the tram and the viewing platform, and you can finish with a coffee. Good if you have children or limited time, and it can be combined with the tram ride up.

Lion Rock

Harder than the Dragon's Back and more dramatic at the top. The final section involves scrambling up rock to stand on the lion's head, with the whole of Kowloon spread out below. About 6 km round trip but with real elevation gain. The last scramble is not suitable for anyone uneasy with heights or exposed rock.

MacLehose Trail sections

The MacLehose runs 100 km across the New Territories and is split into ten sections. Section 2, along the Sai Kung coast, is the one people rave about, with volcanic rock formations and beaches. It is a long day out, but the scenery justifies it if you have the time.

Practical notes for all of them

• Download an offline map before you go. Signal is patchy on the ridges.
• Sun protection is not optional. Hat, sunscreen, the works.
• Carry more water than you think you need, and some food. There are few chances to buy anything.
• The MTR and buses run late, so an afternoon hike is easy to combine with a city evening.
• Check the weather. Typhoon season runs roughly May to October and trails close in bad conditions.

Why bother

Hong Kong gives you two holidays in one. You can spend the morning on a mountain ridge with nothing but green and sea in front of you, and be back in Central for a bowl of noodles by mid afternoon. Very few major cities offer that, and most of the people riding the tram up to the Peak viewing deck have no idea it is there.

Originally published on 71Asia Tours blog.