Beyond the Jokhang

Almost every Lhasa itinerary stops at the Jokhang Temple and the Potala Palace, and rightly so. But the two monasteries on the edges of the city are where you see Tibetan Buddhism as a living institution rather than a monument. Sera and Drepung were, for centuries, among the largest monasteries in the world.

Both sit at around 3,700 meters, which is high enough that you should take it slowly. Give yourself a proper day for each, or split them across two mornings and afternoons. Do not try to see both plus the Potala on the same day.

Sera Monastery and the monk debates

Sera sits a few kilometres north of the city centre and is famous for one thing above all: the debates. On most afternoons, monks gather in a courtyard to argue points of Buddhist philosophy. One monk sits while others stand and challenge him, clapping their hands loudly to punctuate each point.

It looks like an argument and it is one, in a formal sense. The clap is meant to mark the end of a proposition. Watching it is the highlight of many people's trip, and it costs nothing extra beyond the monastery entrance.

When the debates happen

They generally run in the afternoon from around 3 pm to 5 pm, and they usually do not happen on Sundays. Days can shift around festival dates, so ask at your guesthouse on the morning you plan to go rather than trusting an old schedule.

Getting there

Sera is about twenty minutes by taxi from the Barkhor, or you can take a local bus. Taxis in Lhasa are metered and cheap, though drivers may prefer to negotiate a flat fare for the trip out.

Drepung Monastery

Drepung lies west of the city, built into the slope of Mount Gephel. At its peak it housed several thousand monks, and even now the size of it takes a while to absorb. You climb steadily through whitewashed halls and narrow lanes, past kitchens and courtyards, until you reach the upper chapels and the view back over the Lhasa valley.

The monastery is also the setting for the Shoton Festival, when a giant thangka is unfurled on the hillside. If you are in Lhasa in late summer for that, Drepung is where you want to be, and you want to arrive very early.

Practical notes

• Entrance is a modest fee, similar to Sera's.
• Allow two to three hours, more if you climb all the way to the top.
• There is a small restaurant near the entrance serving simple Tibetan food.
• The altitude is real. Sit down often and drink water.

Visiting respectfully

These are active monasteries, not museums. A few habits go a long way.

• Walk clockwise around the buildings and prayer halls, following the pilgrims.
• Do not photograph inside the assembly halls, and ask before photographing monks. Many will say yes, some will say no, and both answers are fine.
• Do not touch statues, thangkas or offerings.
• Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered.
• Do not hand money to children. If you want to give, put it in the offering boxes.

Getting around

A taxi between Sera and Drepung takes about half an hour. Hiring a car and driver for the morning is the easiest way to do both in one day, and it is not expensive by international standards. Your hotel or guesthouse can arrange it.

Remember that as a foreign visitor you need a permit and an organised guide for Tibet. Sort that out before you travel, not after you arrive.

A word on the altitude

Both monasteries involve stairs, and stairs at 3,700 meters behave differently than stairs at sea level. You will feel it in your chest after the first few flights and your legs will want to stop long before your eyes do. Take the hint. Sit on a wall, catch your breath, and start again. Nobody is timing you, and the view from the upper terraces is not going anywhere.

Originally published on 71Asia Tours blog.