Lhasa sits at 3,650 metres. Nothing about your first day there will feel like a normal city visit, because your body is busy with something more urgent than sightseeing. The good news is that if you pace yourself properly, the altitude becomes background noise within a day or two, and what is left is one of the most extraordinary places I have been.

I want to be honest about the difficulty, though, because most guides gloss over it. This is not a spontaneous trip and it is not a cheap one. You are committing to an organised itinerary, to a fixed permit date, and to a few days of feeling mildly unwell while your blood adapts. Almost everyone who goes says it was worth it. I agree, but you should know what you are signing up for.

Sort out the paperwork first

Foreign visitors cannot simply buy a train or plane ticket to Tibet and turn up. You need a Tibet Travel Permit, arranged through a licensed travel agency, and it must be issued before you travel. Your agency also needs your passport and visa details in advance. Independent travel is not permitted in the region, so you will be on an organised itinerary with a guide, even if the rest of your China trip is free-form.

Apply well ahead. In busy seasons, permits take weeks, and the entry date on the permit is fixed, so book your onward transport around it rather than the other way round.

Arriving, and the first 24 hours

Whether you fly in or take the train from Xining, the advice is the same. Do almost nothing on arrival. Check in, drink water, eat something light, and sleep early.

• Do not shower with hot water and then go straight outside on day one. It sounds like folklore; it is broadly sensible.
• Skip alcohol entirely for the first two days.
• Walk slowly, even on flat ground. Stairs will humble you.
• Bring a mild painkiller for headaches and ask your doctor about altitude medication before you leave home.

If you feel breathless at rest, or a headache does not respond to painkillers, tell your guide. Lighter oxygen cans are sold everywhere in Lhasa and are useful for a bad night, but they are not a solution for genuine altitude sickness, which sometimes means going down.

The sights, in the order I would do them

Jokhang Temple and the Barkhor

The Jokhang is the spiritual centre of the city, and the circuit around it, the Barkhor, is where Lhasa actually lives. Walk it clockwise, with the pilgrims, past the stalls selling butter, prayer flags and beads. Go in the late afternoon when the light turns gold and the circuit is at its busiest. This was the single best hour of my whole trip.

Potala Palace

The vast white and red fortress on the ridge above the city. Tickets are limited and are booked through your agency, usually with a fixed entry time. The climb up is a genuine stair climb at this altitude, so take it slowly and do not book it for your first morning.

Sera and Drepung monasteries

Two of the great monasteries, both within reach of the city. Sera is famous for its afternoon debates, where monks argue philosophy in a courtyard, clapping their hands to make a point. Drepung is bigger and hillier. One of the two is enough if you are short on time; both are worthwhile if you are not.

Practical things that matter

Weather in Lhasa is bright and dry, with strong sun and cold nights, so bring layers, sunglasses and lip balm. Photography inside many monastery halls is forbidden or charged, and you should always ask before photographing people. Cards work in hotels but cash is useful for small purchases and donations.

Give yourself a minimum of three nights, ideally four. Two nights is technically possible and almost always regretted.

Originally published on 71Asia Tours blog.