The Xi'an city wall is one of those attractions that sounds good on paper and turns out to be even better in person, mostly because you are allowed to ride a bike around the entire thing. It is a complete rectangle, roughly 14 km end to end, wide enough at the top for several people to walk abreast, and it has been sitting there since the Ming dynasty with various repairs along the way.

I have now done this loop twice, once badly and once well. Let me save you the bad version.

What it costs and how long it takes

Entry to the wall itself is 54 CNY. Bicycle rental is separate and depends on the company, but expect around 45 CNY for two hours on a single bike, or 90 CNY for a tandem. There is a deposit, usually a few hundred yuan, returned when you bring the bike back.

Two hours is the standard rental block and it is enough for most people. If you ride without stopping you can complete the loop in about 90 minutes. Add photo stops, a look over the edge, and the occasional dismount at a watchtower, and you will use the full two hours comfortably. I would not try to rush it.

Where to start

The South Gate, Yongningmen, is the main entrance and the most convenient if you are staying in the old town. It is also the busiest. The East Gate and the West Gate are quieter and the bike rental queues are shorter. If you are staying near the Muslim Quarter, the West Gate is a short walk away and I would start there.

You will need your passport for the rental deposit. Bring it, not a photo of it.

What the ride is actually like

The surface is brick and stone, and it varies more than you would expect. Long stretches are smooth and you can roll along at a decent pace. Other sections, especially near the corner towers, are uneven enough that you feel every joint through the saddle.

The bikes themselves are basic. Single speed, heavy, upright. Nobody is setting a land speed record here. Treat it as a slow cruise with a view and you will enjoy it far more than if you are trying to go fast.

The corners are the interesting part. Each of the four corner towers gives you a long view down two sides of the wall at once, and on a clear day you can see the city spread out beyond it, with the Bell Tower and Drum Tower visible in the middle distance.

The one mistake I made

I started at 1pm in June. Do not do this. The wall has no shade at all. None. The stone radiates heat and there is nowhere to hide. I drank two bottles of water in the first hour and still felt rough by the end.

Go early, ideally at opening time around 8am, or go late, from about 4pm. Late is my preference in summer because you get the golden light on the brick and the temperature drops as you ride. The wall stays open until around 10pm in peak season and the section near the South Gate is lit up at night, which is a genuinely different experience again.

Practical notes

• Bring water. There are a few kiosks on the wall but they are spaced out and not always open.
• There are toilets at the main gates, and roughly one set midway along each side.
• Wear something you do not mind getting dusty. The brick dust gets on everything.
• If you have children, note that the wall has a low parapet but no barrier between you and the drop on the inner side in places. Keep an eye on them.
• You can exit at any gate, so you are not committed to finishing the loop if the weather turns.

What to do afterwards

If you finish at the West Gate you are right by the Muslim Quarter, which is exactly where you want to be when you are hungry. The stretch of Beiyuanmen street is thick with food stalls, and after two hours on a bike the lamb skewers and the cold noodles taste better than they have any right to.

The whole thing costs less than a decent dinner and takes half a day. It is one of the better value afternoons in Xi'an, and unlike some famous attractions it does not require advance booking or careful planning. Just show up, rent a bike, and ride.

Originally published on 71Asia Tours blog.