Zhangjiajie is one of those places where the photographs you have seen set an expectation that reality can either meet or badly miss, depending entirely on the weather. I spent four days there and got two good mornings and two grey washes. The difference was not the location. It was the time and the conditions.

If you are going mainly to take photos, this is what you need to know.

Why the mist matters

The pillars here are tall, thin quartz sandstone columns, hundreds of them, rising out of a forested valley. On a clear day they are impressive but they read almost like a normal mountain landscape, because you can see every detail and there is no depth. Add low cloud between the pillars and the whole scene changes. The nearer columns stand out dark against the pale mist, the distant ones fade to nothing, and you get that layered, floating effect everyone is chasing.

That mist is not guaranteed. It is most likely after rain, and it burns off as the day warms. Which means the practical advice is counterintuitive: rainy or recently rainy weather is better for photography here than a clear blue day.

The best time of day

Early morning, without question

Be at your viewpoint before sunrise, or at least at first light. Two reasons. First, the mist is thickest and most likely to be sitting in the valley. Second, the tour groups arrive in force from about 9am and the main viewpoints become a scrum of selfie sticks.

The park opens early in peak season, and the first shuttle buses start running well before 8am. Take the first one you can. The two hours after sunrise are worth more than the rest of the day combined.

Late afternoon as a backup

The light comes back around 4 to 6pm, warmer and lower, throwing the columns into relief. It is less misty than the morning but often very good for the wider landscape shots. Sunset itself is usually not special here because the pillars face the wrong way. The glow on the rock is the thing, not the sky.

Where to shoot

Yuanjiajie

This is the main area and where the most famous views are. The natural bridge viewpoint and the first bridge under heaven are the headline spots. They are also the busiest. Get in early or accept that you will be sharing the railing.

The best compositions here are usually vertical, using the near pillar as a foreground frame and letting the mist swallow the rest.

Tianzi Mountain

Lower, different angle, and in my opinion better for the layered mist shots. The viewing points here look across a wider bowl of pillars, which gives you more depth to work with. This is where I got the shot I actually liked from the whole trip.

Golden Whip Stream

Down at valley level, a walking path follows a stream between the base of the pillars. Completely different perspective, looking up rather than down. Good on a misty afternoon when the high viewpoints are closed in, and the walk itself is pleasant, flat and shaded.

Practical setup notes

• Bring a telephoto as well as a wide. The compression from a longer lens is what makes the pillars stack up.
• A polarising filter helps cut the haze on damp days.
• The park is huge and the shuttle bus system is the only way around. Learn the routes the night before or you will waste a morning going the wrong direction.
• Lifts and cable cars queue badly from mid morning. Walk or take a bus where you can.
• It rains a lot. A rain cover for your bag matters more than an umbrella.

Managing expectations

The images you have seen are real, but they are the product of specific conditions that you may or may not get. Plan for at least two mornings at the viewpoints if photography is the priority. One morning is a gamble.

Also worth saying: the park is popular with domestic visitors and the infrastructure is heavy. Glass bridges, elevators, crowds. It is not a wilderness experience. If you go expecting a wild landscape you will be disappointed. If you go expecting a spectacular natural site with a lot of people in it, and you time your visits around them, you will come away with something special.

The short version

Go after rain, go at dawn, go early in your trip while you still have the energy for 5am starts, and give yourself several chances at the same viewpoint. The pillars will do the rest.

Originally published on 71Asia Tours blog.